Turn left and it’s on the corner of the next street parallel to the main road. To find Maguroya Kurogin, walk under this arcade until you reach the corner of the junction. Cross the road to reach the covered shopping arcade marking the perimeter of the Outer Market. Eventually, you should see a Jonathan’s family restaurant on the opposite corner. A good indication is also to follow everyone else. From Exit 1, turn left once above ground, and follow the signs to Tsukiji Market, walking along the main road. Exits 1 and 2 are the nearest to the Outer Market. If you'd like to explore this area with an expert guide, check out Chris Rowthorn Tours' Tsukiji Fish Market Tour. It’s a far cry from the papery plastic-wrapped stuff at the supermarkets. There are a few shops around Tsukiji Market, but the freshly-shaved handfuls of honkare katsuobushi here have an especially smoky, meaty soul to them, as though they’ve been sprayed with some fabulous soy sauce.
These innocuous papery pieces that look like pencil shavings are used to make dashi stock, and they are at the heart and soul of Japanese cuisine. It’s time to sample some, and pick up a bag if you’re serious about cooking. You’ll find yourself at 伊勢啓 Isekei, an old-school purveyor of katsuobushi - skipjack bonito flakes. Once you’re done exploring this street (and the rest of the market, if you’re so inclined), walk out towards the main road and turn left.